Fall is for Football

This is the kind of food I want to have bubbling away in the oven making my kitchen smell of divine porkiness while I am preparing to entertain a group of friends waiting for my beloved Buckeyes to take the field.
(whew...  how's THAT for a run-on sentence?!)

For most people, this is summer food... For me however,  I equate having my oven going for over 4 hours with cooler temperatures and for me, cooler temps automatically mean football.

I'm sure this seems absurd to most of you.  Everyone else in the blogosphere is making pumpkin this and cinnamon that and here I am making pulled pork.  Well, I'm sure someone somewhere understands my particular brand of crazy...  it's called football people and it's not just football, it's my Ohio State Buckeyes. 

If you are from the Midwest or the South where meetings are rescheduled and Saturday afternoons are off limits "on account of there's football", then I needn't explain any further. 
To the rest of you who can't quite conceive of this, it's irrational.  Those of us that love football with the fervor of a sale-seeking Jersey Housewife with a platinum card understand what it's all about.

This is one of those great "do ahead" meals that you can cook the night before and then put in a crock pot to stay warm for game day!  I will admit, I ate this for 3 days in a row.  It was that good.  One thing concerns me though,  the amount I consumed and that old saying "you are what you eat"...  oink oink.

Oh yeah,  I'll try to get to that pumpkin-cinnamon thing soon...

Pulled Pork

5 lbs boneless pork shoulder, cleaned
4 cloves garlic, smashed
1 large onion, quartered
2 bay leaves
1/4 tsp black peppercorns
2 cups orange juice
4 cups water
1/4 cup canola oil
2 + cups of your favorite BBQ sauce

Preheat oven to 300 degrees.

In a heavy-bottomed Dutch oven, heat oil over medium high heat.  Season pork with salt & pepper.
Sear pork on all sides.

Add onion, garlic, peppercorns, bay leaves, orange juice and water.  Cover and place in oven for 4 hours.   Check liquid level after 2 hours and add an extra cup of water if needed.

After 4 hours, remove pork from oven and let it sit for 10 - 15 minutes, then place in a large bowl or on a platter.   With two forks, pull the meat apart until all of it is shredded.  While warm, add BBQ sauce and mix well to completely coat pork with sauce.
Pile onto your favorite roll or hamburger bun, sit back and watch some football...


.

Here's the Rub...

The weather in Brooklyn is perfect today...  mid 70's, sunny and breezy.    These end of summer days are the ones I really cherish because I know too well that before long, they will be gone until the spring.

It is nearly unthinkable to cook dinner inside today.   The days left in this year that we can enjoy being outside are numbered and I want every last second of warm sunshine I can get. 

Although, grilling in inclement weather is no foreign concept to me.  I have memories of my grandmother grilling in the rain, tongs in one hand & umbrella in the other...  I guess once she decided what was for dinner, there was no turning back.   Luckily for me, the weather this weekend has been picture perfect. 

If you are among the throngs of apartment dwellers with no access to a grill or outdoor space, this is delicious done on a grill pan or even a saute pan.    Speaking as one of the aforementioned,  I've cooked many a steak on top of the stove and they are almost just as good.

Why use a rub?  Granted, a good quality piece of meat requires little more than salt & pepper and a nice sear, but sometimes it needs a little something extra.  That's where a good rub comes in.   That extra boost of flavor can transform a good steak into possibly one of the BEST steaks you've ever had.


The Rub

• 3 tbsp kosher salt
• 2 tbsps brown sugar
• 1 tsp pulverized dried chili pepper(s)
• 2 tsps ground coffee beans or espresso powder
• 1 tsp dry mustard powder (Colman's)
• 1 tsp Spanish paprika
• 1 tsp black pepper

• oil, for brushing grill
• 2 bone-in ribeye steaks, approximately 1 to 1 1/2 in. thick

Grinding your own spices makes a world of difference!

 

- Mix all dry ingredients together and set aside.

There are a few key steps to this:

• choosing the right cut of meat
• cooking it properly
• forming the crust
• letting it rest.

Before we proceed, a word about the steak. Fat is FLAVOR.  Most people would agree that for this purpose, the ribeye rules. It is nicely marbled, meaning there are little lines of fat running throughout the meat. This will ensure a juicy steak, provided you don't overcook it. 

Now that we've covered the basics, let's get on with it...
    

It is best to start with room temperature meat.  It will cook more evenly, so take steaks out of the refrigerator about 30 minutes before you plan to cook them.

Pat steaks dry with paper towel,  rub on both sides with spice blend.  Cook over medium-high heat until desired doneness.  For me, that is 7 - 8 minutes per side if the steak is 1 1/2 in. thick which is medium-rare.   Let steak rest for a few minutes before serving.

Viva Mexico

The smell of the lightly singed corn tortilla & the memories instantly flood my mind.  I inhale deeply and let the smell fill my head.   

I close my eyes and it's 1993...  I was leaving home for the first time to do a semester abroad.
I was on my way to the state of Jalisco, Mexico to attend the Universidad Autonoma De Guadalajara. 

I remember very distinctly the feeling of stepping off of the plane, walking alone through the airport and realizing that I was on my own in a foreign country...  and speaking Spanish was now a necessity.
The realization that I was the minority in this country where its people were the minority in mine.

Everything was so different; the sounds, the smells, the food...  nothing was familiar to me and as terrifying as that was, it was also the thing that was most exhilarating. 
The most tedious of tasks at home had become an adventure in Mexico, some of them less amusing than others...

I learned more about this country in the few months I lived there than I did in all the years I had been studying it.  Being immersed in a culture other than your own is something I think everyone should experience at least once in their lifetime.  It opened my eyes to things that changed me for the better, giving me a greater appreciation for what I had.

When I'm craving Mexican food, and quite honestly I don't know that I'm ever NOT, I instantly go to tacos. 
It is street food in Mexico. 

Everyone eats them; there are taquerias on every other corner, each one claiming to have the best of one type or another.  They are inexpensive, fairly simple to prepare and generally a crowd pleaser.
 (those of you with picky eaters, rejoice!)

I made slightly more chicken than I needed so that I could use it in another recipe.  If you are like-minded and wish to cook one protein for multiple uses, stick to the quantities below.  If not, you can reduce the number of chicken thighs to suit your needs.

Chicken Tacos
makes 12 - 16 tacos

• 8 skinless chicken thighs, bone-in
• 2 large bay leaves
• 1/2 bunch cilantro
• 2 large carrots, cut in half
• 2 stalks celery, cut in half
• 1 medium onion, cut in half
• 1 quart chicken stock/broth
• 3 tbsp olive oil
• kosher salt & freshly ground black pepper
• flour or corn tortillas
• 1 lime, cut in wedges
• Garnish: shredded lettuce, chopped tomato, caramelized onion & pickled radish (or, go the more traditional route with diced white onion, cilantro & chiles)

1. Preheat oven to 325F.
2. Heat a large, deep frying pan over medium - high heat.  Add olive oil.
3. Salt & pepper chicken.  Add to pan, bone side facing up.   Sear, then flip over.
4. Add chicken stock, bay leaves, carrot, onion, celery and cilantro
5. Cover and place in oven for 45 minutes.
6. Remove chicken, strain cooking liquid and reserve for another use.
7. Shred chicken and set aside. 
8. Warm tortillas, either on a flame or in a pan. (typically served doubled up, not a single tortilla)
9. Garnish tacos with caramelized red onion, shredded lettuce, chopped tomatoes, cumin crema & pickled radishes.

 I put my tortillas directly over the flame. 

Keep a close eye on them, as they will burn quickly!

Traditionally, this is done on a comal...

  

Pickled Radishes

• 10 - 15 radishes
• 1 cup sugar
• 1 cup apple cider vinegar
• 2 cups water
• 1 tbsp pink peppercorns
• 5 allspice berries
• 1 bay leaf
• 1 tbsp kosher salt

1. Using a mandoline or a sharp knife, slice radishes very thinly.
2. Combine all ingredients in a small pot and bring to a simmer.
3. Simmer for approximately 5 minutes, remove from heat and let cool.

Cumin Crema

• 8 oz Crema Mexicana or sour cream
• 1 tbsp chopped cilantro
• 1/2 tsp salt
• 1 tsp cumin
• juice of 1 lime

1. Combine all ingredients and mix until well incorporated.

All Grown Up...

 I turned 40 a few days ago (gasp) and when I was younger I had always used that particular age as a benchmark for being "a real grown up".   I would venture to say that it technically makes me one by my way of thinking but to be perfectly honest, that is entirely debatable.

 That being said it led me to thinking about some of my favorites from childhood.   We all grew up with soup in that red & white can and while I am a steadfast lover of tomato, one that was always in the regular rotation for me was beef barley.   I know...  most kids would've picked chicken noodle and given my adoration for all things starch it would be the obvious choice, only it never had enough noodles.

There was just something about that broth, it was sweet and tangy from the tomato and the barley was just chewy enough to give it texture.  It may not be haute cuisine or even slightly elevated, but I loved it.

Feeling a bit nostalgic, I thought that it might be time to revisit a favorite from the past...  and like me, my soup should be grown up as well.

Beef Barley

• 1 lb stew meat (beef)
• 4 carrots, peeled and thinly sliced
• 3 stalks celery, thinly sliced
• 2 medium onions,  finely diced
• 1 tbsp flour
• 14.5 oz can diced tomatoes (I used petite cut)
• 32 oz beef broth or stock
• 1 c. frozen peas
• 1/2 c. pearled barley
• 2 bay leaves (fresh if available)
• 2 - 3 tbsp olive oil
• salt & pepper

1. In a medium to large stock pot, heat olive oil over medium-high heat.
2. Add beef and sear on all sides.  Season with salt and pepper.
3. When beef has a good sear on all sides, remove from pot and set aside.
4. Add onions and cook until translucent, season with salt and pepper
5. Add celery and carrots,  cook until softened (about 6-8 minutes)
6. Sprinkle flour over the vegetables and stir to coat.  Let flour cook out for a few minutes, then add beef back into the pot and pour in the beef broth/stock.
7. Add remaining ingredients and let soup simmer until barley is cooked (about 45 minutes)
8. Check for seasoning and adjust if necessary.

Wedding Soup

Italian Wedding Soup.  Just the name evokes thoughts of over-the-top Italian affairs, with miles of food and a Venetian hour that would make any diabetic go into a sugar coma just from looking at it.

Italian weddings in New York are a sight to be seen.  If you've ever watched "My Sweet Sixteen" or any of the wedding shows, then you are familiar with what I'm talking about.

Everything is over the top, extravagant and then maybe just a little more...   I was invited to an event of this magnitude last year and let me tell you, it was AWESOME.  They even had someone making cotton candy...

Although these affairs are a sight to behold,  I doubt that was what someone had in mind when this recipe was born.
Its origins actually have nothing to do with weddings at all, but with the "marriage" of meat and greens.  There are hundreds of variations of this soup, but the one common thread is meat (usually in the form of tiny meatballs) and greens.

This happens to be one of my favorites, as it covers most of MY major food groups (meatballs, noodles & veggies) and as is the case with all meals of this sort, you will have leftovers for lunch the next day.


Wedding Soup

• turkey meatballs
• 10 - 12 cups chicken stock
• 1 large onion, cut into 1/4 inch pieces
• 1 clove garlic, minced
• 3 carrots, cut into 1/2 inch pieces
• 5 oz pkg. baby spinach
• 3 stalks celery, cut into 1/2 inch pieces
• 1/4 cup Parmesan cheese, plus extra for garnish
• 1/2 pound thin noodles
• 2 large eggs
• 2 tbsp olive oil
• kosher salt & freshly ground black pepper

1. First, make the meatballs.  Brown them in batches over medium-high heat and set aside.  Don't worry if they aren't cooked all the way through,  they will finish cooking in the soup.
2. Add olive oil to a large stock pot and allow to heat up over medium heat.  Add onions and cook until translucent and soft, then add carrots & celery.  Season with salt & pepper.
3. Cook for a few minutes until vegetables begin to soften.  Add garlic, stir to combine and then add meatballs.
4. Pour the stock in and let it come up to a simmer.  Season again with salt & pepper.
5. Add the spinach and stir to combine as you are adding it.  It will look like too much initially, but spinach wilts down to nothing.
6. Add the noodles and continue to let it simmer.
7. Whisk eggs with 2 tbsp of the Parmesan cheese and add to the soup while stirring.  It will form ribbons of cheesy egg goodness.
8. Ladle soup into bowls and sprinkle a little Parmesan on top for garnish.

Mangia!

For the Love of Pork...

It may not be 100% authentic Alsatian, but how can you go wrong with three kinds of pork, sauerkraut, apples and a bottle of beer poured over the whole mess?!

Traditionally, Choucroute Garni is made with white wine.  However, being the good Midwestern girl that I am, beer seemed the natural way to go.  These flavors are more familiar to me...  cooking with beer is not exactly a foreign concept.  The smell of bratwurst & onions simmering in beer is something that greeted me as I came in the kitchen door of my parents house after school on many afternoons.

This is the kind of meal that you gear up for, like Thanksgiving dinner.  I'm in no way suggesting that you make this every week.  Like Thanksgiving,  this is reserved for once in a while when you need a good stick-to-your-ribs kind of meal.

The sharpness of the sauerkraut cuts the fattiness of the pork and it is complemented beautifully by the sweetness of the apples. This is French comfort food at its best.


Choucroute

• 3 lb pork roast
• 2 - 3 lbs assorted sausages (bratwurst, knock wurst, kielbasa...  whatever you like)
• 1 bottle beer (an Amber beer is perfect)
• 5 strips of bacon
• 3 medium apples, cored & quartered  (I like honeycrisp or gala)
• 2 lb. sauerkraut, drained
• 3 lbs. potatoes, peeled and cubed
• 3 carrots, peeled and cut into 2 inch pieces
• 2 large onions, peeled & quartered
• 2 bay leaves
• 6 black peppercorns
• 6 juniper berries
• mustards for sausages (grainy, hot, sweet, dijon...)

photo: Food & Wine magazine

1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees.
2. Using a small piece of cheesecloth, tie the juniper berries, peppercorns & bay leaves into a sachet.  If you don't have cheesecloth, add them to the pot and remove before serving.
3. Line the bottom of a Dutch oven (or large, enameled cast iron pot) with the onions and half of the sauerkraut.
4. Place the pork roast on top of the onions and place the carrots, potatoes, apples and sausages around the sides.
5. Place the spice sachet in the pot.
6. Layer the remaining sauerkraut on top of everything, lay the strips of bacon over the sauerkraut and pour the beer over everything.
7. Cover with a tight-fitting lid and bake for 3 hours. 
8. Serve with assorted mustards and a good beer.

17th of May

These days my neighborhood is primarily Italian,  but rewind a couple of decades and you'd see a very different picture.  A few blocks over from where I live now used to be Scandinavian, specifically Norwegian.   The streets used to be lined with Norwegian bakeries, stores, restaurants, etc. but unfortunately the majority of these have disappeared.  However, all is not lost...  every year there is a 17th of May parade, which is a national holiday in Norway marking the signing of their constitution and the best part (besides the food) are the people dressed in traditional clothing showing off their Norwegian pride.

photos courtesy of Keith Alexander

Norwegian food is very subtle and delicate in its flavors and I have been lucky enough to have been exposed to some of its more delicious offerings.

One of my favorite things are Norwegian sandwiches,  it may sound simple and not too exciting but they are delicious!  There are classic sandwiches that all Norwegians are familiar with, but the combinations are virtually endless so it gives you a chance to get your creative juices flowing if you feel like changing it up a bit.

To make Norwegian sandwiches:

You'll need very thin sandwich bread, like the one pictured above, the first step in EVERY sandwich is spreading a thin layer of butter on the bread.   See,  we're off to a great start already!

Next, you choose your toppings.  Norwegian sandwiches are open-faced,  so presentation counts.

Here are a few of my personal fav's:    1. Gjetost (Norwegian cheese), this cheese is almost sweet and caramelly.  I know it sounds like an odd description for cheese, but it is unbelievable.
2. Liverwurst and Sweet Relish
3. Hard-Boiled Egg and Dill
4. Roast Beef and Jarlsberg
5. Ham and Mayo with Dill

the perfect light supper

These meatballs are absolutely superb!

Norsk Meatballs

1/2 lb ground chuck

1/2 lb ground pork

1/4 lb ground veal

1" slice of bread

2 eggs, beaten

1/4 cup finely chopped onions

3 TB chopped parsley

1/4 tsp. paprika

1/4 tsp. nutmeg

pinch of allspice

salt & pepper

-Soak bread in water for 5 minutes.  Mix well with rest of ingredients and shape into balls.  Fry in butter (with a little oil).  Add 2 cups beef stock (or broth) and simmer 15-20 minutes.

-recipe courtesy of Elsa Berg

Although I am not Norwegian (however the Vikings did land in my father's country...so who knows) it is fun to partake in the neighborhood festivities and enjoy the celebration.

Happy Syttende Mai!

A little (meat) ball of comfort

Is it just me or does it feel like spring has forgotten to "spring"?  I am desperate to shed my winter coat, fling open my windows and let in the warm breeze...  however it is still hovering around 40 degrees.  Rain is moving in and the temperature is falling. It was, dare I say it...  cloudy with a chance of meatballs.  Days like this need comfort food, the kind that takes time to make.   I have been craving turkey meatballs for about two weeks so today was the day.

There is something comforting about having a pan bubbling away on the stove, making the house smell so delicious.  It's rather soothing to me to cook at a leisurely pace.  I enjoy the process so much more than when it is frenetic.  It allows me the time to really focus on the food.  The tactile sensations of it, rolling a meatball can be mundane but today it was sheer pleasure.  Perhaps because I've been wanting them for weeks,  these were ridiculously good and I enjoyed every single minute of it.  The smell that permeated my kitchen was mouth-watering and the meatballs were absolutely perfect.

There isn't anything particularly spectacular about a turkey meatball, except they are damn good but the sauce is what really makes it.  In lieu of a traditional red sauce to have these with, I went a slightly different route... and today it was the road to happiness.


For the Turkey Meatballs
1.5 lbs ground turkey
1 egg, beaten
1/3 c. freshly grated parmesan cheese
1/4 c. breadcrumbs
1/2 bunch parsley, finely chopped
1 tsp fresh oregano, finely chopped
1 tsp kosher salt
1/2 tsp freshly ground pepper


- The easiest way to make sure the meatballs are consistent in size is to use a small cookie scoop to portion them.  There is a kitchen gadget that is specifically made for scooping meatballs, but I don't own one. 
- Once all the meatballs are scooped, give them a quick roll to make them round & brown them in a few tablespoons of good olive oil in a screaming hot pan to get a nice carmelized crust on them.
- When they are browned on all sides, add in your sauce and let them simmer until cooked through.